Trolltunga AKA “troll’s tongue”

It’s all about perspective

There is a half hour wait for a minute staring into infinity. I feel a rush of vertigo as I look over the edge and I jump back. 

The lookout at Trolltunga, meaning “troll’s tongue,” is not as scary as it looks because there is not such a steep drop as it appears, and the rock is securely attached as it has been for thousands of years.

The hike there is beautiful with lots of snowy mountains surrounding Odda in the distance. I set up camp in the alpine marsh at the beginning before the steep climb. My stamina is good but my toes begin to jam walking downhill. 

The alpine landscape with its classic Norwegian mottled lichen-covered rocks looks straight out of a movie. The snowy peaks on the other side come into view around some alpine lakes and waterfalls. This is the protected zone, though I take a lunch break over the view of the gorgeous lagoon. 

This lagoon is actually the fjord, I soon discover, and trolltunga juts out over it. The water is a nice aqua as the sun comes out. This halfway point marks an impressive gulley carved by ice, forming the classic “U-shape.” Beautiful waterfalls cascade into the basin. The circular shape almost reminds me of a crater, like Quilotoa, although this rock was carved patiently by glaciers expanding and retracting over millenia. 

The mountains glow blinding white, and I continue around the bend to where I see the Trolltunga lookout . Though not the best view of the hike, it is quite stunning especially out on a ledge.  The cliffs are not as steep as the Naeroyfjord, but it is still a force to be reckoned with. The cliff above the edge is quite steep. 

I wait 30 minutes and take all number of pictures until there was no line left after 3pm. Because I set up camp, I wait a long time until the framing is right. 

The wind picks up and I head back, stopping to cool off from the heat in an alpine lake. The sun is in full force finally, although I was sure to come today because of the one sunny day on the forecast. 

I watch as the green lichens and grass shine with a new hue and marvel as the sun dazzles through the clouds over the snowy capped mountains. I walk leisurely back through the tundra, mostly downhill. I am beat and blistered from the hike. I struggle to find my tent, but see the wind tipped it over. Luckily the rain fly did not blow away, as it comes undone really easily. The tent kept blowing over once the wind picked it up. With nothing to anchor it on the rocks, pretty exposed low shrubs, and against the rules to move rocks to anchor the tent, I pretty much spent the morning anchoring the tent myself, running around outside to briefly change position as the wind rolled me right over along with the tent. Changing the angle and moving my bags as weight in the right places helped. Or the wind died down and I was so tired I fell asleep anyways. 

The next morning is beautiful and the mountains around the Odda fjord look spectacular. Taking shuttles down I get plenty of time to appreciate what appear to be glaciers and waterfalls on the way out. 

Though it was a windy night, this was still one of my favorite camping spots.

Norway Express

Traveling along the Flåm railway is one of the most scenic train rides in the world. It has been on my dream itinerary for half of my life, yet I was actually going to skip it. I was going to hike it instead, convinced it was an easy five hour hike through the valley up the mountain. I was even going to set up camp, but the rain makes other plans.

The threat of rain, and the urgency to get to my next destination to take advantage of the good weather, convinces me to hop on the old fashioned tram from the town of Flåm on the Nærøyfjord.

I skip the train museum, but I stock up on tourist items like socks and oggle the sweaters that cost a fortune while I wait for the next train.

This sweater is half priced at $180!

The carriage inside reminds me of the old fashioned train cars that could serve as a setting for an Agatha Christie novel.

I get a whole booth to myself at the back of the car and find myself glued to the window on the right. The blue river gushing through meadows and waterfalls pouring into it are countless. It’s no less beautiful than the rest of the Sognefjord area, but perhaps not more so. It is still a pleasant journey and the rain doesn’t obscure the view. 

I get great photos out the window of the waterfalls and valleys. Only towards the end the Myrdal stations, mountains covered in mist, do we surpass the trail and spiral up to a beautiful waterfall, Kjosfossen. There is a nice hike from here, but there is still lots of snow (according to the information I recieved at the visitor center) so I wasn’t willing to risk hiking here. But the hike from Flåm doesn’t go here either, so perhaps the train ride is worth it to reach this place.

At the train stop everyone exits to take pictures of the waterfall. There is a performance by someone dressed as a Huldra.  These mythical creatures are supposed to be common sightings in the valley according to legend. Music plays and the performer dances in an alluring whimsical way. 

The Huldra impersonator is in a red dress on the right dancing attached to a rope.

The rest of the journey is similar to what I already experienced on the way to Bergen, but with more clouds. They obscure the view yet add a mystical vibe. 

The bus to Odda also has great views. The town of Odda reminds me of Etta from Ragnarok. In fact, I later discover it is the film set for the Netflix show based on Norse mythology. Although there is a factory in the middle of the beautiful fjord, the town has a charm with its multicolor houses and dragon scale tile roofs. I hike up to the top of the town and a bit up the wrong trail, for it is too steep to camp properly. I make do and end up sleeping on an incline spooning a rock. 

Hardangerfjord on the way to Odda
Odda factory/view from my campsite
Odda

I suppose this was the hint Ragnarok was filmed here.

It helps me get up early in time too for my long hike the next day in the sun. 

Nærøyfjord

I thought today would be relaxing: sleeping in, busing over to the next town on the fjord, and taking the ferry across to Aurland, the UNESCO world heritage site. The plan was to camp at the trail entrance to hike up the fjord. 

The ferry ride is downright majestic. The captain narrates the journey as we enter the Nærøyfjord, the UNESCO world heritage site and inspiration for Arendelle of Disney’s Frozen. Soon, I spot a small town Undredal, with a large mountain backdrop that could be mistaken for the imaginary Frozen town. Peeking inside the fjord, I realize it is a detour to see a large waterfall. The Nærøyfjord is stunning and I can’t wait to hike it after hearing from the captain about the view from the summit. 

Undredal

We continue through Aurlandfjord past the town of Aurland, similar to Undredal in that it has an impressive view. This fjord is gorgeous in its own right and I throughly enjoy admiring the landscape from the deck.

I take my time in the town of Flåm to pick up some tourist items and do food shopping for the hiking the next day. I proceed to overpay for the bus to the next “town” over, Gudvangen. I discover the bus schedule is from 2021 and have to walk 5km to the campsite. I could’ve hitchhiked, but I couldn’t swallow my pride. It was exhausting, but the hike through the Naeroyfjord is unlike anything else. There is also a high risk of landslides in this area, so I continue on without lingering. This is definitely the best part of the whole larger Sognefjord (or at least the most narrow, which is the meaning of “Nærøy”). 

The campsite when I arrive is, of course, full. There is another down the end of the road, but it is full as well. I begin hiking the trail to see if I can camp there, but it is just too steep. After 500 meters up I drop my bag and go about halfway, another kilometer, before giving up and heading back down. It’s too exhausting with my bag, and I regret even trying to hike down the steep hill. I sneak off trail to what looks like a safe distance from the camp site to put up my tent. 

The trail is not much further than where I ventured the day before. The clouds swirling in obscure the view, but give what remains a mystical feel. It begins to rain as I get to the viewpoint so I turn back, resting lots along the way down. I am exhausted from the day before so I just go to bed early, leaving the next morning. The clouds have a morning stillness, and the rain stops. Gudvangen at the end of the fjord looks particularly magical with its cascading waterfalls.

Gudvangen waterfall

Glacier

The fjord somehow becomes more scenic as the hills become steeper and taller and the surrounding waters turn bright blue, indicating the prescence of a glacier ahead. Glaciers grind into the bedrock, creating a fine clay and silt powder that is swept along with the glacial melt into the stream. The powder is suspended in the water and reflects the light my favorite shade of blue.

The bus passes countless waterfalls until finally I arrive at the Jostedalsbreen park welcome center. I can see the glacier immediately and am awe struck. It is enormous, even though this arm has retreated since 1899, where it filled about half of the whole valley. This is my first proper view of the snowy mountains surrounding the glacier. I take my time to get oriented and manage to catch a bus up to the start of the trail. 

Imagine the glacier filling the whole valley!

While I can’t see the glacier from the trail, I see the melt forming a bright blue lake framed by mountains. The hike is a bit tricky, involving crossing where the snowmelt cascades cross the path. I manage not to slip and scramble up the bare escarpment to the glacier. 

Finally I can appreciate the glacier in all its glory up close. Inspired by the bluest blue you can possibly imagine, I feel like singing the song from Disney’s Frozen into the chamber. I watch the water gush out from underneath forming the blue river below. For some reason, I recall from my earth system’s class the physics of how the flow and fast moving underbelly of the glacier contrasts with the slow moving surface.

I continue hiking up to see where the ice climbers mount. The glacier is not so blue here as at the mouth of the cavern, but you can see higher up the glacier. I run back down as the sun comes out to reveal an even bluer hue. It looks magnificent sparkling ice in the sunlight. The deepest blues are from the holes and the melting parts. I would love to see an ice cavern safely from the inside, but wouldn’t dare inside a melting glacial cavern.

I descend slowly and fill my water from the glacial melt that flows quickly down the stream. I learn about the fresh vegetation that fills the retreating glacial valley and all the unique plants and birds around. The geographic moss, forming orange and green patches, creates that distinctly Norwegian feel. 

Journey of a Lifetime

At first the lakes and forests on the outskirts of Oslo are similar to Sognsvann lake. The further out the train goes, the more craggy and mountainous the landscape until the typical alpine marsh and boulders mark the terrain. The classic Norwegian scenescape is only improved by white capped mountains which appear in the distance. 

Approaching Myrdal, the mountains increase in size and sheer steepness. Glacial blue rivers and waterfalls taper off the icy peaks. Soon the surrounding white nearly blinds me as I try to look at the most breathtaking mountains. I only catch glimpses of the fjords before reaching Myrdal but I gasp in awe of a waterfall rushing into a steep fjord. 

The fjords are as beautiful as I have heard described and seen in pictures. The valleys without water remind me of Yosemite, but with pine forests. The glacial carved valleys filled with water are called fjords, and these appear more frequently passed Voss and the darling town of Dale where Norwegian sweaters are sewn. Living in a town in a fjord you’d need a warm sweater! I notice the temperature warm up as we go down in elevation towards Bergen. 

Immediately the character of this town shines through. The cobbstone alleys lined with shops sell knit caps, perfect as it gets cold. There are stalls selling moose, reindeer; and whale salami and really tender jerky. I try a moose burger, as good as any, with peppers and fries. 

I arrive at the wharf where the classic Bergen architecture can be admired. 

The cruise departs from the harbor and I fully appreciate how beautiful this fjord is. I have to come back and hike around before I leave. 

The boat cruises by slowly through the inner fjords past many islands lined with bouldered shores. The moss and crag islands are the most iconic. I also love the ones with small villages. The rest are covered in thick pine forest. The inlets are like rivers, but a little different somehow with all the islands. 

Turning the bend, the islands give rise to large peaks and hills. Here the real fjord begins with the stark cliffs I’ve dreamed of. The snow capped mountains sure do the trick. Countless waterfalls stream down from glacial peaks into the ocean. I run back and forth inside the cabin and out to keep taking more pictures. I am in awe and so grateful to finally be here.

I am even happier to be getting off at a stop without rain, though tempted by the other views along the way. I find a place to settle down above Sogndal and rest. 

Oslo

The first thing I notice are how clean and modern Oslo is and all the flowers and green space everywhere! 

I follow the way to the ferry unwittingly passing the downtown area. I have to say it does not stand out much, but I was also distracted. 

I overpay for the bus ticket by €15 (thanks 7/11) and take the ferry over to Langøyene. 

This ride past all the islands is a great intro to the fjords, as I pull past one after the other some inhabited by small villages. The destination is the only one allowed for camping, and on one side is protected forest. 

Nobel peace center in central Oslo

I see loads of wildlife including small rodents, maybe voles, a big black slug, and lots of birds. I plop my tent down at the first plot I see exhausted after the red eye flight followed by a London airport transfer. 

I walk around a bit to see the large meadow with other tents and a fire pit. In the morning, after figuring out how to set my gear and an early wake up from the gulls, I find them wading at the beach. Small water foul run across the field with their babies. A grebe dives underwater and the chicks hurry back to shore lost. 

I walk along the coast to find where the prime camp territory is, as I look out over the fjord to another island and the outskirts of Oslo. The rocky coast juts into the water I am reminded of the resilience of nature if given a chance to recover.  

I go past all the iconic monuments again on my way to lake Sognsvann, a 45 minute tram and then bus ride away. The lake is beautiful and has that mystical feel with an island in the center and jagged rocks along the shore. 

Lake Svartkulp

No camping is allowed here, so I make my way into the forest and set up my tent by a smaller lake. 

Opera house

Finally time for some sightseeing as it starts to thunderstorm. I get trapped as I get off the bus and shelter with some lunch at Barcode Street food. The barcode area is my favorite in the city with jutting skyscrapers and a cool bridge connecting over the train station. But I have to come back for this as I take off for the iconic opera house. The architecture is unique and modern with sloping roofs I walk up. I am careful not to slide down in the rain, but I appreciate the view of the fjord and town. 

Barcode district

From here I see the town hall, which I ran past before so I go to shelter in the rain but it’s closed. Meanwhile the sun is out so feel no need to visit the art gallery and Nobel peace center with steep entrance fees. 

I explore the 13th century fortress on the hill, with small old-style houses in the surrounds. A lot of this street is art nouveau, though some have the classic old style. 

The fortress is interesting but you can’t go inside, and actors reinacting scenes of the past scamper around. 

I get some Indian food for dinner across the bridge and then make my way to the sculpture garden. I first see a sculptured tower of bodies stacked together. Perhaps it shows we all have to build upon others to get to the top? It’s weird but pretty. 

The royal palace, the first place I ran past, is underwhelming but the guards have cool outfits. 

I have to be honest here I’m a bit dissapointed in Oslo. However, it is a clean, organized city that is easy to get around, making for a good introduction to Norway.

London Town

A blast from the past. A walk down memory lane. The sights are not so impressive the second time around, or perhaps it’s the weather. But I’ve seen many palaces across Europe at this point. Buckingham palace seems dull now in comparison to its grandeur eight years earlier. The gardens are quite nice and I enjoy spotting the twittering charming whistle of the European wren. 

I walk all the way to Covent gardens, which I’d been to before, but it’s all modern and trendy now—like a smorgaboard in Brooklyn with food from around the world. There is also a shake shack next to the traditional pie shop. I have a jackfruit burrito—not great, but it’s good just to have food that’s not Italian or Seychellois. 

I meet my friend for a catch up at the beautiful Canary wharf. I am in love with the view of the skyline from here and it’s even better across the water at Greenwich, which I return to the next day. There is an underground tunnel that connects, but it is dank and cold so I take the train. The view over the park from the observatory is one of the best in London. I encounter the iconic prime meridian—the arbitrarily designated line of east and west hemispheres—0 on the GPS. It’s silly, but also quite cool, and regardless the skyline is amazing. 

I wander through the flowers of spring admiring the beauty and sneezing all the way. I pop in the Queen’s house at the naval academy for some royal pizzazz and marvel at the collections. 

I just enjoy wandering around soaking up the unique architectural residential charm of London, the old historic buildings like the Globe theater and cathedrals, and the old market places like Borough market, which is different from what I remember. 

I just enjoy walking along the Thames, crossing the iconic bridges and passing through South Bank, which is super trendy now. The graffiti park is still there. It’s better in winter with mulled wine stalls!

I climb with Gemma for a super fun catch up with Ola, a friend I met when visiting eight years ago ! I meet her boyfriend Dan, his really friendly sister and another childhood bestie. 

I am sore the next day as I stumble past Parliament to the Tate museum and British museum. I love seeing the Rosetta Stone again and the friezes have new meaning now I’ve been to the Parthenon and seen them there. I run around catching glimpses of the Assyrian empire and Babylon, Mesopotamia and extensive Egyptian collection and mummies. I particularly like the aboriginal and Pacific Islanders hall and Chinese jade collection. 

I end the day visiting Shoreditch, a trendy neighborhood north of the iconic business district skyline. 

It is full of street art and trendy restaurants with a bunch of black box stalls selling discounted foods and drinks with a membership. I have an iconic fish and chips so I cannot partak, but I try a zen boba, with lytchee rose and chamomile and grab some delicious bagels for my early morning flight.

Ischia

I set sail along the Napoli coastline.

The boat passes islands and more islands before docking on Ischia.

The town of Ischia has lots of charm. I try some ricotta filled pastries and passion mango and chocolate gelato. I take it through a peaceful park. 

The Castle is very picturesque. There are views of the clear Mediterranean waters and the island of Ischia. I particularly like a path lined with Mediterranean vegetation that looks out over the island. 

There are lots of old churches and the ruins of a cathedral that has been sacked. From Greek to Roman to visigoths, everyone has passed through here. 

Underneath there is a crypt where nuns had the morbid practice of allowing their dead sisters to sit upon a throne and decompose. The nuns would come visit and contemplate mortality, sometimes causing them to become ill themselves. The torture museum is the stuff of nightmares. 

I visit the hot springs that flow into the sea. I watch the steam rise from the water flowing into the cold Mediterranean. The crystal clear waters mix with the hot water to create a warm bath. In reality, it is much too hot or too cold, with a small area that is just right. The body perceives pain when presented with the contrast, but also the water is too hot as it leaks from cracks in the rock. Just above remains of eggshells indicate people boil eggs here to test the heat. Ideally the waves would mix the waters, but it is too calm today. A woman there mixes it herself and shows me where the best spot is, a ”Goldilocks zone.” After she leaves, I am left alone to watch the sunset from the little nook in the bay. It is interesting to see, but with the abundant algae and inconsistent temperatures I think I prefer a thermal bath over the ocean. I somehow navigate back without my phone, and have a pizza for €3.50, as good as any in Naples!

I visit the hot sands of the fumello, heating the sand to 100C. I see the smoke rise, and the beach is already hot. I die from the heat and find relief in the crystal clear waters, but it is too cold for a dip. I continue to picturesque Sant Angelo, an island connected to the mainland castle. The town here is cute and reminds me of one of the towns on the Greek islands like Santorini

I follow the steep path back up to return to port where I treat myself to gelato and pastries like amaretto, an cherry and almond liquor mix.

The next day, the hike up to the top of the mountain is unexpectedly on a paved road, but at some moment near the top it transitions to a woodland forest filled with wildflowers and birds chirping. I climb the bare escaparment to the top where there is a restaurant, forcing you to smell the delicious food before reaching the summit. 

The highest point of Ischia

I make my way up to be greeted by a spectacular view of the other rocky peaks and the dramatic coastline. I continue along to view the other side where I get great views of the summit! 

On the way down I walk along through farms and do some birding. There are many interesting rocks and many skinks, even some geckos! 

Ischia is very difficult to get around by bus—I wait 45 minutes for the correct one and even still have to transit over to a different bus. 

It is nice getting another buffala pizza in Tribunali street and soaking up the Naples atmosphere. There is a Pint of Science event in one of the Palazzos. I would have loved to go, but my Italian listening skills have gotten a lot worse. 

Naples from the bay

I pick up more pastries and soak up the festive atmosphere, stopping to buy a belt, as I head off. 

Seychelles finale

I rush to make the last boat out for diving to finish 12 hours before my flight. With diving, nitrogen builds up in your blood, and high altitudes make the bubbles expand, which can be dangerous and even fatal. So I wasn’t allowed a second dive and instead snorkeled over the vibrant coral gardens.

The dive is around a beautiful îlot composed of rocks and a few palm trees. Diving down I am surrounded by thousands of underwater flowers—white stalks with purple filters feeding on the sediments highlighted by the scattered light.

The dive site is just past the beach of Beau Vallon

While I am sad to not see much hard coral, except for a bleached brain, I am intrigued to see all the different multi-colored patches of algae covering the rocks. Maybe sea slugs blend in seamlessly on the kaleidoscope of color. I am thrilled to see all the gorgonians—purple sea fans swaying in the strong current.

I see a lion fish with its frills out and an eagle ray passes by. I dive over some outcrops to accidentally swim right into a giant moray eel. I follow the instructor through a cavern of soft coral, in awe as I’m surrounded by the underwater bloom of soft corals.

We continue along and I appreciate the smaller things. Small shrimps camouflaged on carpet anenonmmes catch my eye. I don’t see much until the very end, where all of a sudden a hawksbill feeds right in front of me. I follow him with my gaze as I float to the surface on my last dive in Seychelles.

Mountains on the road to Baie Ternay

I have a quick lunch and immediately set off for the other recommended place to snorkel—the marine park at Baie Ternay. I bus all the way around just to get to the other side of the mountain range, with beautiful views along the way of course. This coastline in particular is beautiful, with a great view of islands, Therese and Conception. There is a beach with a little island that is particularly cute and a beautiful mountain backdrop to boot. There are also mangroves along the way.

This mangrove is a RAMSAR wetland site (like a UNESCO world heritage site for mangroves). It seems like a luxury hotel is built through it, however.

Arriving at the end I enjoy the Baie of Lazarus, also a marine park. I continue walking along the road under fruit bats until I reach the secluded bay. The water is also green and murky. I am greeted with a coconut and directions to where to swim from a Rastafarian. The reef is a long way out!

Baie of Lazarus

I start by walking in the shallow water up until my hips. I start swimming over the seagrass beds until I reach sand again, where I propel off with my feet to push through the shallow water, careful to avoid venomous cone snails.

As I pass the sea grass the visibility improves and I can see corals. I keep swimming and the corals keep going. This whole area is dominated by primarily live corals, a rare site in this part of Seychelles. I am taken back to the Great Barrier Reef as I follow the corals past the algae dominated to healthy coral. It is exciting seeing so many large schools of fish, until they start eating me. They head straight towards me and I fight them off swimming all the way out to the edge of the reef. I seem to have outswam them.

I politely refused the coconut, but the rasta man insisted!

I look down and I see another hawksbill turtle feeding on the coral. I take in what will be my last sea turtle encounter, following him until he goes past the drop off as the hill slopes into the deep. I wish the morning dive went here, but I turn back towards the reef for better visibility.

I continue across the marine park, impressed by the extensiveness of the reef. I follow through the shallow water until I hit a giant brain coral. Like the mind of the reef, it seems to be the center.

The last beach I visit in Seychelles

I am surrounded by a school of fish, and the visibility worsens, so I bid a sad farewell to what is probably the best reef I’ve seen in Seychelles. I can’t tell tears from seawater as I cry tears of joy and sadness to leave the water. I swim the 800 meters back to the shore to find the Rasta men have left, so I continue along watching the golden hour sun light up the beautiful mountainside and islands. The mangroves look particularly stunning as I walk past to the beaches. I catch the bus just in time to get back for an Indian Uppatham dinner before heading to the airport. Farewell Seychelles!

Beach Crawl

I walk up this beautiful coastline to Sunset beach, named for its view of this horizon to the west. 

The beach and corals are no better than Anse Lazio, but I have an amazing encounter with a flock of spotted eagle Rays. I follow one pair, which leads to another, which lead me to a group of 10 rays. They soar to through the water next to me as I look them deep in their intense eyes, seemingly full of wisdom. They circle around me beneath as if in a display to change direction. I follow them for over half an hour before getting cold and heading to the reef along the rocks. 

I come back to explore this side the next day to see tons of sea urchins. Some have electric blue or purple stripes along the cracks of the symmetrical lobes beneath the spines, which are also occasionally blue. 

I find a squad of 8 squid jetting by. They stop and slow down, mesmerizing me with their undulating fins. They go backwards and forwards, shifting direction with such ease. They shoot up close to the surface where I get a close look at their iridescent body shimmering in the sun that’s come out. Their eyes are an off putting shade of green, almost neon. I swim as if one of the squad until they swim to an area with low visibility. I continue along the reef to find beautiful anemones, a yellow starfish, and brain coral.

A lion fish with its frills out drifts in the strong current. I love its unique design and I also look it right in the eye stalks. He takes a big gulp of something on a rock. I leave him to float as I begin to get cold.

On my way out I stumble across two large stingrays, one seemingly asleep and the other feeding. She goes off out of the reef, so I dive down close to the one sleeping.

I also follow an eagle ray out of the water where I reunite briefly with the gang from yesterday. We swim at the same shallow depth and I really appreciate them in the sun beams.

~~~

The most beautiful beach on Mahe?

I think I’ve found it at Anse Soleil 

After a pit stop at Anse Royale at the recommendation of my hotel owner (reminds me of Côte d’Or) I managed to catch the only bus to Anse Soleil. 

Anse Royale; the current was too strong to swim to the coral

I walk a bit down the road to the spectacular view that awaits me. The mountains look fantastic from this angle, and Therese site posed on the  perfectly turquoise water. 

The clarity is like an aquarium and there is some coral to. I spend lots of time just floating in the calm water appreciating the view!

The sand is silky smooth as usual and I think this might be my favorite beach. 

Anse Soleil

I spend what seems like an eternity here before I decide it’s time to move on. I stop by Petite Anse, ironically much larger, which shares half the view. There are steep granite cliffs here and some interesting coral so that it’s worth the visit. I finish all my snacks as my stomach grumbles and I hitch up the road to replenish my water and get some banana cake to eat. 

Petite Anse at the Four Seasons resort

While here, I walk down the road to Baie Lazaro, but the waves are too scary to go in. The view is nice, but I catch the bus and hitch another ride down to Anse Intendance. On many lists this is #1, but the large waves are also scary.

Anse Intendance

I dip my feet in and sink deep into the soft as I walk across. It reminds me of Grand Anse on La Digue, beautiful and wild, and Anse Lazio on a rough day. It even has a river flowing too. With a storm on the horizon, I don’t linger long, and I hitch up the road and have some takeaway before it starts to shower. 

Anse Intendance

I enjoy the most beautiful sunset thanks to the clouds, and see rainbows and hills glowing red from the sun’s rays on my way back to Victoria.